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This article originally appeared in the Videomaker Magazine October, 2001 issue. Pages 97 - 103
Reprinted with permission from Videomaker Magazine, Chico CA., Videomaker Inc. All Rights Reserved
Call: (800) 284-3226 for subscription information
For this and other articles visit us at www.videomaker.com
©2005 Videomaker Magazine. Reproduction of this article for any use other than personal is prohibited.

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Home Video Hints:

Simple Steps for Camcorder Care

by Jim Stinson

Illustration by Octavio Diaz

Keeping your video equipment in tip-top shape can save you big bucks down the road

Taking the time to care for your video gear may seem as thrilling as sorting your sock drawer, but wait! Don't you lovingly sponge off your golf club booties or rub nose oil on the joints of your fishing rod or burnish the tips on your stamp tweezers? Maintaining gear is less a chore than a ritual tribute to the hobby it supports. And if you reflect that replacing a lens can cost more than a new camcorder, you can see why video housekeeping's well worth the effort.

Camera Care

Given its delicate components and precise functions, a hobbyist camcorder shouldn't last a month. Its mechanisms rival a Swiss watch, its tolerances are measured in microns, and dust, heat, water, shocks and general negligence routinely mortify it. Nevertheless, it usually works for years with only minimal care.

That care starts with the camera body. Clean it with a microfiber cloth, just slightly dampened with plain water or whatever cleaning agent your owner's manual approves. Do not use any chemical not specifically mentioned in that invaluable manual. Today's equipment is fabricated from a combination of materials ranging from titanium to recycled newsprint; you never know when some benign kitchen solution will wipe the lettering off your buttons or even melt them down.

While you're messing with buttons, open your camcorder's on-screen menu tree and restore all controls to their default settings. Depending on your unit's make and model, some special settings (manual focus, exposure compensation, high-speed shutter, etc.) may remain in flash memory even after the camera's shut down. The next time you shoot, they can awaken and silently foul up your footage.

Though some folks make a production out of cleaning the tape transport, I do not. I view an open cassette bay like the mouth of a short-tempered shark and keep my fingers out of there. Mopping the interior with cotton swabs and carbon tetrachloride is not a job for civilians, so don't try this at home.

Using a head-cleaning cartridge is safe if you follow the vendor's instructions, except for their recommended intervals. Modern tapes don't shed much iron dandruff, record and playback heads are delicate, and all, yes, all, cleaning systems are at least mildly abrasive. Unless you run a thriving wedding video business, one or two head cleanings a year should be about right. ( next column)

Don't forget your external LCD viewing screen. The panels themselves are delicate and the plastic membranes above them will actually distort if you push them sideways, so clean them with great care. I like lens cleaning solution and a microfiber cloth, but again, follow your manual's directions.

Lens Care

This brings us to lens cleaning. Some micro-mini models seal the actual lens behind a protective glass (and often a snap-open lens cover, too). Other units may expose the front lens element and provide threads in front of it for adding protective or color filters. Do not clean the lens with your shirt sleeve or facial tissue!

With either system, you should cherish whatever hunk of glass faces the world by keeping it clean enough for a surgical theater. Foreign pollutants and abrasives like fingerprints, dust and salt spray degrade the sharpness of your images; and in bright sunlight, wide-angle shots can have such extreme depth of field that spots on your lens are in sharp focus.

If your lens has filter threads, keep a transparent filter (which will act like a lens cap) in place at all times. That way, when the water skier you're shooting splashes Great Salt Lake all over you, a $20 filter is a painless sacrifice to protect a $1,000 lens. This filter may be labeled "UV," "1A" or "skylight" (the difference between these variants is meaningful only to the film cameras for which they were originally designed).

Videotapes

Videotapes need love too. Remove partly-recorded cassettes from the camcorder and label them. Mini DV labels are a trial for my 2nd-grader printing, so I usually just write the date and the total elapsed footage for reference when I next use the tape.

To rewind or not to rewind? Rewind cassettes that will be stored for long periods of time. But if you plan to re-use a tape within a month or so, leaving it at 41 minutes or wherever will save a tedious search for blank tape and maybe prevent taping over previous footage. (In the old VHS days, wasting 20 minutes of unused tape cost practically nothing; but digital tapes cost real money.) After all these years, there is still no definitive argument for shelving tapes standing or flat, but most professionals bring cassettes to a full upright position for storage.

While we're in the neighborhood, let's repeat a point we made earlier about preparing new tapes. You should prepare future tapes by putting blank labels on them so they're ready for instant use in the heat of a shoot.

Accessories

Batteries are the subjects of another endless argument. Engineers say they don't in fact have memories; users snort, tell that to my batteries! Either way, follow these tips to get the most out of your power packs:

  • Keep them warm before using them (in an inside pocket works well if you're on the ski slopes) for more efficient functioning.

  • Run them all the way down in the camcorder, to help defeat that memory effect that may or may not exist.

  • Recharge them immediately after use and then top them up immediately before the next use.

  • Store them outside the camcorder.

And no matter how casual your shooting habits, invest in at least one spare battery - personally I use three in all (one in the camera and two in the external charger).

We've already mentioned the transparent lens cap "filter," which you leave on the camera, with the original opaque cap clipped on the front of it. If you also have a polarizer and/or neutral density filter, nurture them too. Their original cases are fine if you get the rigid plastic kind, but consider screwing them together to form a stack. A screw-on lens cap protects the top filter, and you can still get female-threaded caps for some filter sizes to protect the underside of the bottom filter.

If you have a tripod, it's probably a lightweight consumer model with a disconcerting tendency to fall apart. In addition to cleaning it and spraying a bit of lubricant, check the legs for loose or missing pop rivets and repair them. And don't forget the quick release, if your tripod has one. One half is built onto the head, but where's its mate on the camcorder, in a pocket someplace? I mail-ordered in for a second camera-side release plate for my tripod, and keep it in my gadget bag for times when the original fails or turns up missing.

When you've buffed your gear to a spiffy condition, keep it that way with a dedicated bag. Many shooters like the traditional shoulder gadget bag, but I prefer a hiker's fanny pack with belt-mounted camera bags on each side. During a shoot, I rotate the pack around to the front for easy access. Remember that videographers are like fishermen; we have society's permission to look absolutely silly when festooned with our gear.

And in my case, maintaining dignity's a lost cause anyway.


How to Clean a Lens (and Filters too)


To clean a lens, use the least invasive technique that will do the job, in order:

  1. With a dry mouth, blow puffs of air across the lens or filter to dislodge loose dust.
  2. Using a blower bulb with a brush mounted on it (available at department store camera counters), wipe the lens with a gentle circular movement, while repeatedly squeezing the bulb.
  3. With an optical-grade microfiber cloth (often given away with new eyeglasses), wipe the lens with the same gentle circular motion.
  4. Using photo tissue (never facial tissue or your shirttail) and lens cleaning solution (never Windex or spit), crumple a tissue into a loose ball, dispense just one drop of fluid onto the lens and gently wipe it in an outbound spiral with the tissue. repeat the process with a second, dry tissue.

If you follow this regimen (and always keep a filter on the front of your lens), you can keep your glass virtually perfect in definitely.


This article originally appeared in the Videomaker Magazine October, 2001 issue. Pages 97 - 103
Reprinted with permission from Videomaker Magazine, Chico CA., Videomaker Inc. All Rights Reserved
Call: (800) 284-3226 for subscription information
For this and other articles visit us at www.videomaker.com
©2005 Videomaker Magazine. Reproduction of this article for any use other than personal is prohibited.


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