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videomaker
magazine tips
This article originally appeared in the Videomaker
Magazine January, 2005 issue. Pages 49 - 51
Reprinted with permission from Videomaker Magazine,
Chico CA., Videomaker Inc. All Rights Reserved
Call: (800) 284-3226 for subscription information
For this and other articles visit us at www.videomaker.com
©2005 Videomaker Magazine. Reproduction of
this article for any use other than personal is prohibited.
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The
world is full of rolling stock, just waiting for
you to ride it while you shoot amazing moving shots. |
| Without
dynamic moving shots, videos can look, well, old-fashioned.
Hand-holding is fine, but without a Steadicam, the
results lack the creamy smoothness of dolly shots.
Professional dollies (like the Microdolly Hollywood
system) are affordable for small enterprises, but
you can also make fluid moving shots with just about
anything that rolls on wheels. |
Camera
Carts
The
classic guerrilla dollies are wheelchairs and
shopping carts. Shopping carts are usually no
good, because, face it, you have to steal one
to use it. Furthermore, after banging around
in a supermarket parking lot, the cart wheels
are rarely good enough for smooth moves. The
four swiveling wheels are tough to control on
any kind of slant and one of the four is sure
to rattle. Let’s just forget about shopping
carts, but it does illustrate an important point:
potential dollies are everywhere.
Another
option is an industrial cart. They’re great
because they’re sturdy, have push bars and large,
often pneumatic wheels for smooth rolling. Some
examples of industrial cards include food service
carts, library carts, factory parts carts, warehouse
carts; a great many commercial environments
have suitable rolling stock just waiting for
you to use.
If
you’re an entry-level professional, you might
want to invest in a cart of your own. When not
rolling along making shots, they’re invaluable
for hauling equipment around a location. When
buying a cart, look for these essentials:
-
Collapsibility:
unless you’re working out of a maxivan, you’ll
need to fold it for travel.
-
Strength:
fold-up equipment must be stronger, to maintain
rigidity.
-
Versatility:
look for a model with a removable top shelf/platform,
so you can stand on the lower one as you shoot.
-
Two-wheel
steer: Swivel-front and fixed-rear casters
make controlling the unit much easier.
While
industrial carts are almost always better than
shopping carts, they do have small hard wheels
that work best only on really smooth surfaces.
Even with a large cart, a tripod may be impractical,
so bone up on your hand-holding techniques.
Skate, snow and surf boards might be other options,
but they can definitely be dangerous, to you
and your camcorder.
|
| Camera
Chairs
Wheelchairs
are a truly remarkable shooting platform. Besides
having huge wheels to minimize small pavement
irregularities, they collapse to fit a car trunk
or back seat and have a built-in operator’s seat.
The safe and stable platform is ideal for the
videographer, who can leave the pushing, guiding,
and watching-out to a dolly grip. While new wheel
chairs are outrageously expensive, second-hand
chairs are surprisingly easy to find.
In
the old days, wheelchairs allowed only low camera
angles because the eye of the seated operator
was no more than 48 inches off the deck. The external
LCD screens found on all modern camcorders change
all that. By swinging and rotating the screen,
you can hold the camera at any height your arms
can reach.
Wheelchair
shooting can work well with a monopod as an accessory.
For a higher angle, place the foot on the seat
between your legs, extend the column to taste,
tilt the view screen to see what you’re shooting
and twist the monopod to pan. You can even tilt
enough to make running composition corrections,
although the "tilt" is technically a
shallow arc. By reversing the setup, you can make
rolling shots with the lens just inches off the
ground. If we could have only one moving platform,
a wheelchair would be our choice.
More
Exotic Transportation
On
an industrial shoot, you can sometimes use big
rolling stock like electric carts or working
ATVs. I once pulled off a spiffy crane shot
from a pallet on the prongs of a forklift (secured
to the machine with a war-surplus web belt).
Units like cherry pickers and such can be useful
for bird’s eye angles, but their motion is usually
too jerky for crane shots.
People
movers, on the other hand, are smooth as a butter
pat on a hot griddle. All you need is good hand-held
technique. Escalators are great for massive
crane shots and you can find them in many locations,
such as in hotels, malls, department stores,
terminals and garages. The only downside to
escalators is that you are limited by location
and the fact that they are very slow. You can
use the same gag with airport-style beltways
for dollies. Still, you are probably going to
have a hard time hiding the fact that you are
in an airport.
Glass
elevators can be very dramatic, whether in multi-story
atriums or on the outside of tall buildings.
Because the windows use very thick glass, you
can minimize the appearance of scratches and
dirt by keeping your camera lens as close as
possible without touching. If you have manual
focus, set it to infinity to minimize imperfections.
A circular polarizer can also help by dialing
out reflections.
|
Taping
in a vehicle means either shooting outside it
or inside it. The most common inside setup is
the driver from the passenger’s POV. This is
simple to pull off, as long as you don’t brace
yourself on a firm surface like the windowsill
or dashboard. The big problem is matching backgrounds
from one shot to the next or from interiors
to exteriors. To minimize background importance,
you might try these techniques:
-
Shoot
from a slightly low angle to get as much sky
(and as little street or road) as possible.
-
Frame off the windshield. Scenery is more
blurred when whizzing by the side.
-
Use a neutral density filter, which will let
you widen the aperture, which ultimately helps
to throw the background out of focus.
-
For
a reverse angle on the front seat passenger,
you must put the camcorder near where the
driver should be. Check the sidebar for a
safe way to do this.
When
shooting the world through a vehicle window,
the big problem is reflections. This is especially
true in a train or tour bus with fixed windows.
Again, a circular polarizer will help tame reflections.
For tinted windows, set the white balance through
the window if you can. When you can open a window
or sunroof, just follow good hand-holding practice
and don’t touch vibrating surfaces (which is
just about anything in a moving vehicle).
A
monopod rig is good for safely moving the camcorder
outside the car, most often to avoid including
the car in the shot. You can also get closeups
of the front wheels steering madly on corkscrew
roads and similar dramatic effects. To preserve
your camcorder, it’s absolutely essential to
fit a clear glass filter on your lens. If you’ve
ever had a stone hit your windshield, you’ll
understand why.
Finally,
forget about stunts like shooting from the bed
of a pickup truck at all but the slowest speeds.
It’s very unsafe unless you’ve been secured
with a professional restraining belt and even
then, most police officers take a dim view of
these hijinks. If you need more flexibility
than you can achieve from inside the car, consider
getting a car camera mount system.
Contributing
Editor Jim Stinson is the author of the book Video Communication and Production.
|
|
Sidebar:
An Improvised Jib
With
a monopod and an LCD monitor, you can position
your camcorder where it would be otherwise unsafe.
You can also extend your reach up to six feet
for all kinds of other difficult setups. If your
vision is good enough, you might be able to get
by on many shots using your camcorder's included
LCD. For a more professional setup, you can buy
a separate little LCD monitor with input jacks
for remote monitoring. Inexpensive models are
available and some portable DVD players even have
input jacks. |
|
|
Sidebar:
Shooting Tips
Whatever
your transportation you use, you’ll often be
hand-holding your shot. Here’s a recipe for
smooth shots:
-
Set
the lens to extreme wide angle, to minimize
jiggles.
-
Use lens stabilization if you have it.
-
Turn
your arms into shock absorbers by holding
elbows relaxed and away from your sides.
-
Use
the external LCD view screen, for flexibility
and to keep your forehead from bonking into
the camcorder.
-
When
tracking subjects at a fixed distance, get
a focus and lock it, to prevent passing objects
from grabbing the autofocus away from your
subject.
|
| This
article originally appeared in the Videomaker
Magazine January, 2005 issue. Pages 49 - 51
Reprinted with permission from Videomaker Magazine,
Chico CA., Videomaker Inc. All Rights Reserved
Call: (800) 284-3226 for subscription information
For this and other articles visit us at www.videomaker.com
©2005 Videomaker Magazine. Reproduction
of this article for any use other than personal
is prohibited.
|
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